Symptoms of Betta Fish Diseases

When you have possession of a Betta fish, there is nothing worse than understanding that your little companion has contracted a Betta Fish disease. There are various unusual types of diseases a Betta Fish can get, and you are the only one that your Betta fish can depend on to help them get healthier when they are sick.

When you have a sick Betta fish, the basic thing you will have to recognize are the warning signs of the Betta fish disease. A few symptoms comprises of compressed fins, and a lack of desire for food. Clamped fins can be recognized by your ill Beta fish not flaring and holding his fins as close to his or her body as achievable. Clamped fins are mainly a technique by which Betta fish give you an idea that they are sad and ill.

If your ailing Betta fish is rubbing up against plants and other substances in the tank, it is somewhat possible that he or she has contracted a parasite. Parasites can be no matter which from Ich, or white spot ailment, to worms that hang off of your Betta fish's body. Parasites can be taken care of with medication such as Jungles Parasite Guard, Nox Ich, or Malachite Green. Be assured that you know accurately what parasite is disturbing your fish before you dose the tank with the chemicals.

One more symptom of Betta fish sickness is white or peculiar colored poop. This is the symptom of an internal bacteria or parasite. Regrettably, in most of the cases, if your fish has an inner trouble, it can be incurable. There are medications within definite kind of foods considered to battle these types of troubles, and if caught early sufficiently, it can be resolved.

A third symptom of disease is white, cotton like stuff budding on your ailing Betta fish. This symptom of Betta fish disease is for fungal contamination. Fungus, as well as fin rot, tends to be cured with the similar type of medications. Fin rot and mouth rot can be observed by black, red or white edges to the fins of your Betta fish, and a perceptible shrinking of fin size. Fin rot, if not cured, can turn into complex fin rot, and take the life of your Betta fish.

If you want Betta fish assistance, there are several special forums online that you can make use of. If you are having an urgent situation, though, it is best that you get in touch with your neighboring fish store, where they can assist you recognize and start treating your fish with the correct medicines.

It is to be expected that our betta fish will fall ill either due to water quality or handling. Proper awareness of the temperament of the warning signs and essential treatment process is significant if one were to get pleasure from this hobby. We can take dogs or cats to vets if our pets fall ill. For fish we simply have to be our personal vets … I have never heard of Fish Vets, have you?

The best disease avoidance is a cautious preservation plan. Keep the water hygienic, supply sufficient and suitable diet. Routine inspection is the best preventative measure. Losses of color and or desire for food, sluggishness, tiredness, or unusual behavior are among the first symptoms. Additional signs comprises of swelling, fin rotting and fungus that are noticeable.

Fin rot is generally due to bad water condition resulting from gathering of uneaten foodstuff or other waste material. Aquarium salt will generally help out.

Swim bladder problem is very ordinary to betta fishes. This makes them having complexity rising to the surface for air. After a great effort to reach the top and air is breathed in, the fish falls back to the base, unable to sustain its optimism. Swim bladder can be due to too much feeding or wounds at some point in fights or shipping.

Betta fishes are extraordinarily prone to velvet. Warning signs comprises of tiny yellow specs covering the body, fins, or gills.

Guide to Betta Fish Food

Bettas are carnivorous. In the wild, they live off of insects and their larvae. Their mouth is designed to snatch prey on the surface of the water, and their digestive tract is too short to metabolize most plants. This means they are best suited for live food, but they can adapt to flakes and frozen or freeze dried foods.

If flake food is used, it should be supplemented by frozen, freeze dried or live food.

Brine shrimp, Daphnia, plankton, tubifex, glassworms, and beef heart are all good choices to feed Bettas, and are commonly available frozen or freeze dried. Note that Bettas can take up to a week to recognize a new food type, so you should keep the staple food constant and supplement with treats and other types of food occasionally. Most appear to prefer a mix of brine shrimp and bloodworms for their Bettas.

There are dedicated Betta foods on the market. These are usually pellets and should float on the surface for easy consumption. Hikari Betta Bio-Gold is well regarded, as are HBH Betta Bites and San Francisco Bay Brand Betta Food, which is essentially freeze dried bloodworms. Other brands have complaints about Bettas refusing to eat, inadequate nutrition and sinking pellets that Bettas can’t consume fast enough.

With the Hikari Betta Bio-Gold, there are complaints about the packaging, but the larger sizes are easier to use. Remember that each Betta only needs about three pellets, and overfeeding will result in contamination of the tank. This is both because of food that rots and excess defecation from the overfed fish.

Some Bettas won’t eat bloodworms, while others adore them. However, bloodworms are not a complete diet, and should be used as a treat or supplement for those fish that appreciate them. Most say their Bettas prefer live food, but some believe that too much live food can be bad for a Betta.

Let the Betta see the food coming. Drop the food right in front of the fish, so he doesn’t have to hunt for it. If the food isn’t eaten immediately, you should wait for the fish, but if it isn’t consumed in 15 minutes, remove it and try again later. Start small, perhaps 6 brine shrimp, and if the Betta eats them all and there is no sign of belly distention, and the fish still acts hungry, you may feed it a little more, but the second feeding should be smaller.

There are products marketed at Betta vacation foods, but results are mixed. Some appear to swear by them, while others complain of the overfeeding issues listed above.

Additionally, many fish foods claim to be color enhancers. It appears the actual importance is proper nutrition and good conditions, so any good source of nutrients would be about as effective in color enhancement as any other.

Adult Bettas can be happy with feedings once or twice a day, provided care is taken to present a balanced diet and the correct amount of food is provided.

Treatment of Betta Fish Diseases

The main reason of the diseases of betta fish is internal pressure. The pressure can be a result of several different things. The most widespread disease is infection.

Betta Fish Care and Treatment: “Maracyn 2” by Mardel is suggested. Maracyn-2 is a all-purpose antibiotic tablet which is utilized for popeye, fin and tail rot, gill ailment, dropsy, septicemia, secondary and inner infections. It is essential that the treatment be absorbed within the beta fish to cure the infection. Regular water changes twice a week, in addition to higher temperatures may also aid the beta fight off the infection himself.

Fungal infection

Fungal infections generally happen because of bad water conditions. They become visible as white fluffy growths on the beta fish's mouth, eyes, and fins and are highly infectious.

Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Increase the temperature of the beta fish tank. Fungal infections are time and again an outcome of cooler water temperatures. Medicines including Malachite green or Methylene blue are also useful. Malachite green is a totally harmless and helpful cure in fresh and salt water on a wide variety of protozoan, crustacean, and other invertebrate parasites of fishes. Adding ordinary table salt (sodium chloride) to the water, one teaspoon per gallon can lend a hand in minimizing the healing time.

Ichthyophthirius multifilius (Ich)

Ich is a protozoan parasite found on the majority of the freshwater fish. It emerges as small white dots or stains on the beta fish’s fins and body, which may seem to be like white grains of sugar. Eruptions mostly happen when the water temperature drops less than 80 degrees F.

Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Raise the water temperature to the mid to higher 80s degree F. Salt baths are very helpful against Ich. Adding common table salt (sodium chloride) to the water can lend a hand in reducing disease. Add one teaspoon per gallon as a pre-emptive measure. Medicines containing Malachite green or Methylene blue, continued at a time gap of 2 days are also helpful.

Velvet/Oodinium

It is an algae parasite found on several freshwater fish. This ailment emerges as a yellow "velvety" covering on the beta fish's body. It may also become visible as golden or rust colored. It is habitually found in fish which are anxious due to chilling, shipping, water changes or bad water quality. Symptoms comprises of fast breathing and lethargy.

Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Raised temperature and medicines like acriflavine, Methylene Blue or Jungle's “velvet guard” should help cure this parasite. Bowls or tanks should be drained and unsoiled. Dyes must not be used as they have mercury.

Fin Rot

Fin Rot is a bacterial disease and often happens to weaker beta fishes.

Betta Fish Care and Treatment: application of antibiotics, anti-microbials, and measures containing these is the perfect cure of this disease. One such anthology is Mardel Maracyn 2. Maracyn-2 is an all-purpose antibiotic tablet used for popeye, fin and tail rot, gill ailment, dropsy, septicemia, secondary and inner infections. Changing the water, increasing the temperature and adding a small amount of salt will often attain excellent results.

Dropsy

It is caused by an inner, bacterial contagion. It mostly shows itself as stuffed sides and overhanging scales on the beta fish. Again, the most possible reason is bad water conditions.

Betta Fish Care and Treatment: The application of Mardel's Tetracycline is suggested. Tetracycline is an all purpose antibiotic for ailing fin and tail rot, popeye, gill ailment and dropsy. It is mainly useful against gram-negative pathogenic organisms.

Black Spot
It demonstrates small, black scraps on the body of the beta fish. It is time and again found in fish that are harassed due to shipping.

Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Adding common table salt (sodium chloride) to the water can lend a hand in minimizing the healing time. Adding one teaspoon per gallon is suggested.

Common Beta Fish Treatments

* Copper Sulfate is helpful as an antiseptic for equipment, tanks and bowls.

* Formalin is helpful against Ich and parasites.

* Malachite Green is generally used to cure protozoan infections.

Beta fish are flexible but do not bear thermal swings splendidly. Betas are tropical fish and must be placed in tropical temperatures. Beta fish need habitual, twice-weekly water changes in gallon water containers, a combination of foods (not just dry pellets), and your communication to remain healthy.

Most of the ailments or illnesses with tropical freshwater fish can be credited to their surrounding atmosphere.

Nearly always a rapid water change, the adding up of a bit of salt (unionized sea salt is the most excellent, about a level teaspoon per five gallons equivalent) will resolve anything which is ailing them.

7 Tips to Prevent Ick (White Spot Disease) From Affecting Your Betta Fish

You wake one morning to find that you healthy looking betta fish is now not so healthy looking....What looks like someone took salt and shook it all over your fish can be a lot more serious than you think. The reality is that this is the sign of a very common disease known as "fish ick (ich)" or white spot disease.

Here are some things you can do to prevent and treat white spot disease:

* Regularly change out the water to your aquarium- I personally change the water out of my tank twice monthly although you don't necessarily have to be that vigilant. Changing out the water is more than simply pouring it out and filling it up though. You want "aged water" meaning that you want water to be sitting out for at least 24 hours before you fill the tank up.
* Feed your betta fish a variety of foods- freeze dried and flake food- Betta fish are meat eaters but giving them a mixture of brine shrimp and beef hearts combined with the typical flake food is best.
* Reduce the stress of your beta's environment by maintaining a constant pH balance and avoid fluctuations in water temperature and ammonia levels- You can buy testing kits at any local pet store and your aquarium should have a thermometer. Temperature should be regulated to keep a constant and reliable environment and betta fish are best suited for warm and slightly acidic pH balance (7.0)
* Don't overstock your tank with fish- Sounds like a no brainer but many people think if one is good then 10 must be better. An overstocked fish tank is a breeding ground for disease and stress (which cause disease because it hinders a fish's immune system.
* Always quarantine new fish for a minimum of four days before introducing them to your main aquarium- Fish that come fresh from a pet store are more likely to bring with them anything they had in the previous tank. Since the Ick parasite has a life span of 4 days, you are going to want to quarantine the betta fish long enough for the parasite to proliferate and die.
* If a fish shows signs of Ick, remove him to the quarantine tank (min. 4 days)
* Never purchase plant life that has been in a tank with fish in it. If you do, quarantine it- Just like purchasing fish from a fish store could cause problems, purchasing plant life that share a tank with other fish can do the same. Quarantine to be on the safe side.

Obviously, there are also medications that you can use to eradicate the Ich but remember, you aren't necessarily treating the fish themselves but you are treating the tank. If you follow these steps then your fish will lead a happy (and healthy), stress free life.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Using Betta Fish Bowls

One of the primary concerns when buying a betta fish is where you will keep it. Your options basically boil down to an aquarium or bowl. There are plenty of reasons why you should consider betta fish bowls, but also a few reasons you shouldn't. This article will discuss some of the advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages

One of the first benefits of going with a bowl is that it's the much cheaper option. The least expensive aquarium will generally cost much more than the largest bowl you can buy. Most beginners go with this option for this very reason.

Beginners will also enjoy the next advantage of betta fish bowls. They are very simple. You just put your fish in the water and you're all setup. This is far from the case with an aquarium. At the very least, you have to put in gravel and a filtration system.

A bowl's size can also be considered an advantage. Since they're generally smaller, you should have no problem finding room for your new buddy. With an aquarium, you'll need to find a space large enough to fit it.

Smaller size also means less weight. Even filled completely, a bowl shouldn't weigh that much more than an empty aquarium. You shouldn't even bother trying to lift an aquarium when it's filled up with water. Therefore, you'll need to bring a water source for changes. You can take a bowl wherever you want to change the water.

Disadvantages

Now that you know some of the advantages of betta fish bowls, how about we discuss some of the disadvantages. As mentioned earlier, size can be considered a benefit. However, since they're so small, they're only suitable for younger fish. As your fish grows, he'll run out of space and you'll need to buy something bigger.

Remember how easy bowls are to setup? Well, since you won't be installing a filtration system, you'll need to do water changes manually. The water can become toxic in such a small environment pretty quickly, so this should be done very frequently.

However, you can get a filtration system for a bowl. But it can be tricky. You'll need to find a design that's efficient enough, but not powerful enough to generate a strong current. Your fish wouldn't appreciate that at all.

Aquarium Fish - Betta Fish Care

If you have ever seen those magnificent, beautifully colored fish floating around a little plastic cup at the fish store, then you know what a Betta looks like. One of the most aggressive and popular fish to date, Bettas are common because betta fish care is quite simple. Watch out for Jaws. The basic pet health care for betta fish is relatively simple. They do not require a large tank. In fact, they can survive in small plastic containers that they are sold in. However, it is best to keep betas in a tank by themselves. Known as Siamese Fighting Fish, male betta fish will fight to the death when placed in a tank together. This is why they are kept in separate tanks. Siamese Fighting fish will even get upset when placed in tanks next to each other, which can be interesting to watch, but not very fair to the fish themselves. If you bring home betta fish, you will need to keep them separate, if you want them to remain healthy and safe.

Tank maintenance is very important to pet health care. Taking care of tank maintenance with a betta fish does not require much. Bettas are clean fish, so cleaning is minimal but you will need to clean the tank regularly. Remember that standing water can grow stagnant quickly, and is the perfect breeding ground for bacteria. You would not want to swim around in icky water, so why make your betta fish? Though betta like warmer water, after all they are tropical fish, so you may have to invest in a water heater to keep the water temperature at the appropriate degree. Also you will need to monitor the pH balance to keep the tank and your fish free of infection and grime. Applying these simple tips for Betta fish keeping will mean a happy and healthy betta fish environment. Betta fish keeping can produce a wonderful pet in your home or office if you keep just a few things in mind. Betta fish care requires very little maintenance, just a nice size tank, clean water and the appropriate fish food. Betta fish also enjoy blood worms, so having them on hand as a treat is a great idea.

Are you considering breeding your fish? Betta fish breeding can be daunting. For pet health reasons, Bettas, despite sex, should be keep separate, since they are so aggressive. Even males and females should be in separate tanks. A male will blow bubbles as a nest for the eggs. Once the fish are ready to spawn, place the female in the tank with the male. The female will expel the eggs into the water. The male will fertilize them, and then the eggs float into the nest. The male will care for the eggs until they hatch. Either way, Betta fish are beautiful and interesting additions to any household or office. Proper care can keep your betta happy and healthy, and ready to fight if given the chance!

Veronica Valentine is an accomplished niche website developer and author.

Four Reasons Not to Use a Betta Fish Vase

Have you ever seen a betta fish vase? It's basically a large flower vase filled with water and maybe a live plant. There are quite a few good reasons why you shouldn't put your betta in one. This article will take a look at some of these reasons.

Space

The main reason why you shouldn't use one of these vases is the lack of space. Although there are relatively large designs, most don't provide enough space for your fish. Without enough space to swim around freely and exercise, your betta will be unhappy and less healthy.

Air

Did you know that bettas have a special organ on top of their head? Called a labyrinth organ, it allows fish to breathe oxygen from the air in addition to getting it from water. A betta fish vase with a large plant inside may prevent your buddy from getting the air that he needs. Without enough space to come up for air, he'll die.

Plant

Even if you do house your betta in a vase, you should avoid putting a live plant in there. A plant will only take up more room, which is already an issue with such a small amount to begin with. The plant also produces waste that will eventually cause health problems with your betta.

A common plant found in a betta fish vase is the peace lily. Some new owners believe that their betta can eat the plant and survive for a while. However, these fish are meat eaters. Although they may nibble on the plant occasionally, they need real food.

Water

Bettas are tropical fish, so they like warmer temperatures. Do you think you could easily regulate the water temperature in a betta fish vase? I think not. Also, the water will get dirty from waste produced by your fish and the plant if you have one in there. The vase will be too small to have a filtration system, so you'll have to change the water frequently.

These are some of the best reasons not to put your pet in a betta fish vase. You want him to be as happy and healthy as possible. To do this, make sure that you know what you need to about betta fish care

Newbie's Guide to Betta Fish Tanks

Thinking about buying a betta? Well, you should get an aquarium to house it. If you're new to the whole process, there are a few things you should know about setting up betta fish tanks. This article will give you a few tips to get you started.

Size

One of the first things you need to think about when getting a tank is its size. If you'll only have one fish, a three to five gallon tank will be sufficient. Multiple fish will do best in a 10 gallon tank since they'll need a lot of space to swim around freely.

Filtration

You will also need to get a filtration system. If you don't keep the water clean, your fish will become sick very quickly. Make sure the filter's strength is suitable for the tank's size. If it's too strong, the water current will make it difficult for your fish to swim around easily. Even with a filtration system, you need to be prepared to do 10-15% manual water changes on a weekly basis.

Cover

Did you know that bettas love to jump? Well they do! One of the most common causes of death of these fish is jumping out of their tanks or bowls to their death. Therefore, make sure you get a cover for the tank.

Decorations

Now for the fun part. If you don't want your little buddy swimming around in plain water, you should look into adding some decorations to the tank. There are a variety of decorations you can add to betta fish tanks such as buildings, figurines, and rocks. Be careful not to put rocks in that have sharp edges. Your fish can rub against it and harm himself.

Siamese Fighting Fish - Explanation of Betta Tail Types

Siamese fighting fish are a great fish to start the aquarium hobby out with. They are widely available, come in many different color varieties, and do not require much specialized care. I sometimes like to walk around a pet store and pay attention to the number of people who will sit and stare (and eventually walk home with) a betta fish. For years, most of the local fish store siamese fighters had a type of tail known as the veiltail. This is the familiar swooping, fan-shaped caudal fin that most people would instantly recognize when they spot a fish of the species betta splendens. Did you know that selective breeding over hundreds of years has led to more than 6 other tail shapes in this magnificent fish?

The delta finned betta is one with a caudal tail that has straight edges to it. This siamese fighting fish has tail edges that fan away from each other at an angle around 45 degrees, but definitely not straight up and down. The outer edge of the tail should be a nice smooth arc. A super delta tail is one that has a greater area to the fins (ie. the sides of the fins approach vertical when the fish is in full flare mode). If you would like to see actual images of the tail types detailed here, they can all be viewed at the free betta tail type gallery mentioned below.

Many people consider the halfmoon siamese fighting fish to be the "be all and end all" of betta tails. Basically, the caudal fin should form a perfect D shape when in a full flare. The sides should be perfectly vertical, and they should form a crisp corner with the outer edge. The outside edge of the tail will ideally have a nice smooth shape just like the delta fin, and show no rippling. Halfmoon bettas do not necessarily breed true. Even two halfmoon parents will have only a relatively small percentage of offspring that exhibit true halfmoon tails.

Double tail siamese fighting fish are unique. Through a process called ventralization, the dorsal fin resembles the anal (lower) fin, and the caudal fin (tail) is doubled. The two lobes of the tail should be equal in size and shape in a high quality double tail betta splendens. Double tails with an overall shape similar to a halfmoon are sought after by betta breeders, but double tailled veiltail fish are also possible.

A round tail betta is a siamese fighting fish that has a caudal fin that looks much like an egg. The sides are not straight - instead they curve out from the body and meet the outer aspect of the fin in a smooth arc. There is no crisp meeting point as is seen in halfmoon tails.

Crowntail bettas (CT for short) are in a class all their own. Their tails are quite unique. The webbing between the rays (support structures of the fins) is "reduced" by 50 to 60%, letting the rays stick out from the edge of the webbing. This trait can be combined with most of the other tail shapes. A halfmoon siamese fighting fish with a crowntail trait will have a tail that looks much like a crown (thanks to the evenly spaced projections of of the fin's rays). This trait is recessive, meaning if you cross a CT fish to a non-CT, the kids will have fins that don't show much crowning at all (and will be called combtails).

Finally, plakat fighters is another name for siamese fighting fish that have the short tail trait. The tails are generally less than half as long as their long-finned relatives. Like crowntails, plakats come in all varieties of tail types. They can be round shape ('traditional plakats'), halfmoon plakats, or even crowntail plakats.

Most importantly, it should be noted that if your betta splendens is to keep it's tail in it's best overall shape, the fish needs to be healthy and have a clean source of water in its aquarium. A sick halfmoon betta will not have a tail that even remotely resembles the characteristics that make halfmoons worth a considerable amount of money. For more tips on betta fish care, you are encouraged to visit the informational site at http://www.squidoo.com/bettabreederscanada

Four Common Betta Fish Diseases

There are various diseases that can affect your betta. Most betta fish diseases are caused by poor water quality, so you can prevent many by keeping the water clean. Some of the most common illnesses include fin rot, velvet, and popeye. This article will discuss some of these illnesses.

Fin Rot

Fin rot is one of the most common diseases. If you keep a betta long enough, you will probably have to deal with it at least once. This condition is characterized by the tail or fins rotting away. It can quickly become a problem if you allow the water to stay unclean too long. Although the tail or fins will grow back once treatment begins, it will take some time.

Popeye

Popeye is also one of the most common betta fish diseases. Like fin rot, it's caused by unclean water which leads to a bacterial infection. This condition is quite easy to spot as your fish's eyes will literally bulge out of his head. It can be disgusting the first time you see it. Popeye needs to be treated with antibiotics and frequent water changes.

Velvet

Unlike the two aforementioned diseases, velvet is caused by a parasite. It is highly contagious and can quickly spread to other fish in the tank. Affected fish will attempt to get rid of the parasite by rubbing themselves against hard objects. Other signs of velvet include rapid gill movement, weight loss, loss of appetite, and lethargy.

This illness presents a problem because it's usually diagnosed in an advanced stage. Therefore, you would need to start treatment as quickly as possible. TO treat this condition, you will need to dim the lights, add copper sulphate to the water, and raise the temperature to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Your fish may also have a hard time breathing. Aquarium salt will help remedy this.

Dropsy

Dropsy is one of the most serious betta fish diseases. It is usually fatal. This illness results from kidney failure which causes fluid to build-up inside your fish. You can easily spot his swollen belly. If he also has raised scales, it's a pretty safe bet that he has dropsy. Unfortunately, there is no cure and most bettas die within a couple of weeks.

Newbie's Guide to Breeding Betta Fish

So, you've got yourself a male and female betta and want to breed some young ones. Before you begin, there are a few things you need to know about breeding betta fish. This article will give you a few tips to get you started.

Before you attempt to introduce the two, you have to spend some time getting them conditioned. You should feed both of the fish high quality foods starting two weeks before you put them together. Live food is best, but frozen blood worms and other dried foods will also suffice. You should also note that younger females usually produce more eggs, which may result in a larger brood.

Bettas are often referred to as Siamese fighting fish because males will battle each other on sight. Therefore, you should never put two males in a tank together. Males can also get rough with their female counterparts at times. When breeding betta fish, it's important to keep your eye on the female. You'll need to remove her from the tank if the male gets too rough with her.

So you've finally got the two together. At this point, the male will wrap around the female to prompt her to release the eggs. Upon release, the male will release his sperm to fertilize them. After she releases all of her eggs, you should put the female in a separate tank so she can recuperate.

Male bettas take care of the young. He builds a bubble nest to hold the eggs, and will return them to the nest should they fall out. Fry should start emerging about two days after the eggs have been fertilized.

The young fry have to stay in the bubble nest for two more days since their gills haven't developed well enough for them to swim independently. Once the gills have fully developed after the two days, the male needs to be removed from the tank. If you fail to do so, he may eat all of the young fry.

Tips For Diagnosing a Sick Betta Fish

If you're going to care for bettas, then you should be prepared for them to get sick every so often. You should know some of the symptoms of common diseases so that you will have no trouble diagnosing a sick betta fish. This article will discuss some of the things you should look for.

Appetite

Bettas eat everyday. If he shows no interest in food, then there may be something wrong with him. Sometimes, they'll just be reluctant to eat but will finally do so. Your fish may also spit the food back out after eating it if he's sick.

Behavior

Watching their behavior is another way to tell if you have a sick betta fish. They're usually very active, but will become lethargic when something is wrong. He may stay in a corner or at the bottom of the tank and only come up for air.

Another behavioral change to lookout for is rubbing up against hard objects. If you notice your fish doing this, then it's likely he has been infected with a parasite.

Appearance

Sick betta fish may also have a change in appearance. Some illnesses cause your fish to develop patches of color changes. Fungal infections are a common cause of this. Bacterial infections can also lead to fin or tail rot, which may cause blackening of the fins.

Another common betta disease is velvet. In addition to other symptoms, it causes your fish to develop a rust-colored film on the skin. Other diseases can cause open or red sores to appear.

Betta Fish Care - Tips to Have Healthy and Beautiful Betta Fishes

Betta Fishes are a very popular type of fish that are found in many homes across the globe. It is therefore important that to know the art of Betta fish care. These fishes are so beautiful, and their vibrant color never seize to attract persons, even those who have never had to care for fish before. If you follow this article, then caring for Betta fishes should be quite simple as it will provide some stunning tips to help you to maintain an aquarium filled with healthy bettas.

If you have just taken home some Bettas, the first thing you want to do is to get familiar with their actions and behavioral patterns. Doing this will help you to spot changes in the future. You will have an idea if they are not healthy or if their surrounding is not at optimum conditions. For example, changes in the temperature of their water.

1. The size of the aquarium or container that you keep your betta fishes in is very important. Your Bettas should be able to swim around without tearing their fins or shedding their scales.

2. Try your best to keep the water clean as your Bettas will strive in the cleanest water possible. To ensure that the water is clean, you can take out about 1/3 of the volume every 3 days and refill then tank with water that has been set out for at least 24 hours.

3. Betta strive in neutral water conditions. This means that their surrounding water should not be acidic nor basic. The pH should be around 7.0 You can get pH testers at your pet store as well as solutions to help you keep the water at a neutral pH.

4. Keep your betta container covered. Bettas love to jump and so you don't want to find your Betta fish on the surrounding table top. To reduce this problem, you may keep the water in the container at least two inches from the top.

That's it! These tips for caring for your Betta fish will have you well on your way to keeping a healthy fish.

Breeding Betta Fish

t is not an easy task to breed Betta fish. However, one important factor is to take care of your Bettas for efficient breeding.

How to Breed?

To begin with, it is necessary to have a female Betta fish. However, it is a bit tough to find a female Betta fish these days. Female Betta fishes are dull as compared to males. Even though some are beautifully colored, their fins are usually shorter than males.

You can keep two female Betta fishes in the same tank, but you cannot do the same with males. First, you need to keep the male and female Bettas in different tanks and provide them with the best quality food. The female needs to eat properly, because female Betta is less likely to produce eggs with an empty stomach.

With the help of this diet schedule, the male begins to form a gurgle nest, while the female fish starts looking a bit plump. At times, you may even witness the eggs within the female Betta's belly. This is the right time to put both the fishes together in the same tank.

Next, you need to constantly supervise them, because there are chances that the male Betta may attack the female Betta. If this happens, then it is wise to take the female Betta away and try breeding her some other time, usually after several days.

While breeding, the male Betta fish will wrap his body around the female in an attempt to fondle her. After this, the eggs drip out of her, since she spawns, and immediately the male Betta discharges his sperm to inseminate the eggs.

Next, the male Betta will scoop all the eggs in his maw and puts them in the bubble nest. This is the right time to get the female Betta from the tank.

Betta Babies:

After two days of actual breeding, small Bettas emerge from their nests. After this, you need to take out the male Betta fish from the tank, because he might eat the offspring.

Food for infant Betta fish is not available, as they eat only tiny microbes and protozoa. You may breed microbes with a little straw from your backyard and keeping in an open jar full of water. After 3-4 days, you will see that the water in the container becomes a little muddy with all kinds of tiny life in it. This is the sign that the jar is full of food for baby Bettas.

L. CLARK is a successful publisher of http://www.betafishcareguide.com WEBMASTERS you may publisher this article provide you leave the link in place.

Bettas - The Most Exotic Fish For Freshwater Aquariums

If you compare the difference between the salt water or marine fish and freshwater fish, you know that the fish for freshwater aquariums can be a bit dull and boring compared to salt water fish. However, there is one fish for freshwater fish tanks that is so beautiful and exotic it can rival any of the marine fish.

This fish is the Betta or Japanese fighting fish. You've probably seen them sitting In tiny round bowls at your pet store. These are the beautifully colored fish with long flowing fins that come in a range of red, purple's and aqua's.

These fish exhibit a grace and beauty that compares to none other and you might just one of the lucky fish tank with a dozen of them. However, this wouldn't be very good idea since male Bettas - the ones with the long fins - a very territorial and will fight to the death.

When buying Bettas for your fish tank you need to make sure that you only have one male aquarium. You can have more than one female, but the females are not as beautiful as the males having much shorter fins and in fact, the females can also fight but are not as aggressive as the males.

in addition to being beautiful, the Betta is also one of the few freshwater fish that can survive in water that has little in as they can actually take the oxygen from the air itself. But just because they can survive in a little tiny bowls doesn't mean you should subject him to such a boring life. just like with any fish the bigger the aquarium and the better the water quality and healthier you fish will be.

If you do decide to keep your Betta are in a small fish bowl you'll need to spend a lot of time doing water changes in making sure that the water quality is good enough for your fish to size. The water in a small bowl will soon become toxic due to decaying food and wastes and there is not enough room in a small bowl for enough bacteria to build up for sufficient biological filtration. You should probably change out half the water to three times a week in order to keep the ammonia nitrate levels at bay. Also be sure that your fish gets the appropriate heat and light necessary to survive.

Feeding your Betta the appropriate food will help keep him healthy and colorful. Bettas are carnivores and will need a meat-based feed food. They like food such as prime time, freeze dried blood worms and you can also buy food specifically formulated for the Betta fish. If you're feeding him frozen brine shrimp, thaw it out so that your Betta can digest it properly. Don't overfeed refresh, simply given up what he can eat in a minute or two as you want to avoid having food rot on the bottom of your tank which will reduce the water quality.

Bettas like a water temperature that is around 78 to 80°F and it is good to keep this temperature consistent. keep your tank away from windows so that algae does not build up and also keep it out of drafts or sunlight is the sunlight can heat the water up to much. Adding live plants suitable or aquarium can help filter the water and keep the quality at peak levels.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://fish-tank-guide.com where you can learn more about aquarium care and fish such as the Betta.

Ten Tips for Caring for Your Betta Fish

Betta fish, also called Siamese fighting fish are one of the most popular types of fish found in homes across the world. Their vibrant color and active lifestyle seems to draw in fish fanatics as well as those who have never had fish before. Betta’s are relatively easy to care for and their low maintenance is particularly appealing to people who would like to have fish but don’t have a lot of time to care for them.

Once you bring your Betta’s home you should begin to familiarize yourself with their movements and typical behavior patterns. When you look at your fish after you’ve had them for awhile you’ll know if something is wrong, if they are not feeling well, or if the water in their bowl is not in the best condition simply by being observant.

1. Make sure the jar or bowl that you keep your Betta in is big enough so that he can swim around and not bump or tear his fins or scales. Also be sure there is plenty of surface area so that he can get enough oxygen.

2. Your Betta will thrive in the cleanest water that you can provide for him. He does not require a filtration system, but you should change out a third of his water every three days so it stays fresh and clean and keeps your finned friend from getting bacterial or fungal infections. Aged water (water that has set out for twenty four hours) is what should be used to replace the old water.

3. Do not put your Betta fish with other Betta’s. They are called Siamese fighting fish because they are, in fact, fighting fish. They will tear at one another, often causing the death of at least one fish before they stop. Betta’s can be coupled with algae eaters, guppies, or corydorus catfish safely.

4. Use a turkey baster to clean small particles of uneaten food or debris from the bottom of the bowl or jar. Allowing this debris to sit at the bottom of the jar will cause the water to become cloudy, unsanitary, and to smell awful.

5. The PH of your tank should be at exactly 7.0. You can get a PH testing kit at your pet store along with solutions to minimize or increase the PH of your water.

6. When you clean the plants, rocks, or decorations in the bowl you should never use soap on them. It’s very hard to completely rinse all soap from these items and the soap residue can harm or even kill your Betta. Instead, use warm water and an abrasive brush to clean his things.

7. Keep your Betta tank, jar, or bowl covered! Your Beta will jump and you don’t want him to end up flopping on the tabletop! Keeping the water level at least two inches from the top of the tank should also cut down on this problem.

8. Your Betta is a meat eater and likes live foods, such as brine shrimp the best. Frozen bloodworms are also a good choice for your meat eater. Most Betta fish will happily eat the Betta pellets sold at most pet stores. For a special treat every now and again you should offer some live food! You’ll have fun watching him eat it up!

9. Do not decorate your Betta bowl with rocks or marbles that may cause your Betta to get stuck between or under them. Be sure that they are a flat smooth surface that provides no risk to the health of your fish.

10. Remember that your fish is a living, breathing responsibility. You need to feed, clean, and care for your Betta just like you would any other pet. If he’s sick take him to the vet, if he’s hungry feed him, if his home is dirty, clean it.

That’s it! These ten tips for caring for your Betta fish will have you well on your way to keeping a healthy fish. Internet Betta Groups or library books can be a great source of information should you want to learn more about your finned friend!

Adam Short is the owner of Betta Fish Center and co-wrote the above article with Amanda Fenton. Amanda has been caring for Betta fish for over 25 years. She is a contributing writer to http://www.bettafishcenter.com - site providing information and tips on betta fish care.

Betta Fish Trivia

Did you know...

That Betta fish are also known as

* Betta Splendens
* Siamese Fighting Fish
* Beta (mispelling that has come to predominate)
* Chinese Fighting Fish ( wrongly )
* Japanese Fighting Fish ( ditto )

Betta are native freshwater fish from Thailand (formerly Siam) and Cambodia (formerly Kampuchea).


Although these beautiful fish were not seen in Europe untill the 1800's, they have been cultered and kept in Thai households since the 1200's.

Bettas seen in todays aquariums have undergone centuries of selective breeding and have become far more aesthetically pleasing than the original 'Wild' Betta.


That Bettas come in many varieties?


Crown Tail Betta


Half Moon Betta


Delta Tail Betta


Plakats or Short Tail Betta


Half Moon Plakat

Betta Fish Diseases

If your fish is well cared for then disease should not occur very often. When your fish do become ill you should act immediately. This topic is so broad that I can only give a general outline here. As ominous as these diseases sound you should be aware that most are easily treatable if you recognize the signs and treat your fish quickly. As always Prevention is the best cure.

You might want to Bookmark this page so you will have quick access in case of a future emergency.

It should be noted that this is for your general knowledge and while all attempts have been made regarding accuracy of content we can not be held responsible for any action taken on your part as a result of this information. You should always consult a qualified expert in the care and treatment of your fish.

In general fish diseases can be catagorized as either Environmental, Bacterial or Parasitic.

Environmental has everything to do with the condition and set up of your fish's home. A well maintained fish tank or bowl will virtually eliminate these types of diseases.

Bacteria exists in all tanks and in most cases this is not a bad thing. However when your Betta is stressed some bacteria can and will infect your fish and cause its health to decline. This is usually a slow process but in some cases it can spread rapidly leading to the death of one or more of your fish in a matter of hours.

Parasites are tiny creatures that feed off of your fish. The most common parasite is known as Oödinium and the little buggers can strike down every fish in your tank.

Below are listed some of the most common forms of these 3 Diseases.


Unionized Ammonia (NH3)

Environmental

Description:

Ammonia poisoning can occur for any or all of the following reasons and is probably the number one cause of death in cultured fish.

Occurances:

When a tank is newly set up.
When you add too many new fish to a tank at one time.
When the filter fails.
When bacterial colonies die off because of medications or sudden changes in water conditions.

Symptoms:

Fish gasp for breath at the water surface.
Purple or red gills. (Fish appears to be bleeding)
Fish is lethargic
Loss of appetite
Fish lays at the bottom of the tank
Red streaking on the fins or body

Ammonia poisoning can take days or appear suddenly.Usually you will notice your fish gasping for air at the waters surface.Since it is not uncommon for Betta fish to breath on the surface, it is important for Betta owners to know their fish in order to spot the changes. The gills may appear to be bleeding by turning a reddish or lilac color. The most obvious sign you will notice is that your Betta will become very lethargic and stop eating. Sometimes your Betta will simply close its fins and lay on the bottom of the tank.

If untreated the poisoning will eventually do tissue damage which will appear as red streaks or bloody patches on the body and fins. Internal damage occurs to the brain, organs, and central nervous system. Unchecked your Betta will hemorrhage internally and eventually die.

Treatment:

Lower the tanks pH below 7.0
Change 25 - 50% of the tanks water. (use aged water)
Apply neutralizing ammonia chemical like AmQuel (available at pet supply store)
Reduce feeding. (the uneaten food will only increase problems)

Kordon AmQuel

Using your test kit;

Begin treatment immediately if the ammonia level rises above 1 ppm.
Lower the pH of the water to provide immediate relief.
Change 50% of the tanks water.(be sure to use aged water and make sure that it is the same temperature as the aquarium).
You may need to change water several times over a short period to drop the ammonia to below 1 ppm.
Only use the neutralizing chemical if the fish are in severe distress.
Restricted feedings to reduce waste.
If the ammonia levels are extremely high then discontinue feedings outright. (sometimes for several days.)
Do not add new fish to the tank until ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.

Testing ammonia and pH levels are critical. Ammonia toxicity increases as the pH level rises above 7.0.

If you don't have a test kit I find this kit is easy to use and tests for pH, water hardness, alkalinity, nitrites, nitrates and ammonia in both freshwater and saltwater tanks.

Mardel Master Test Kit

To set and stabalize your pH use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Proper pH

One product that I like sets your pH level to7 and eliminates ammonia at the same time is Neutral Regulator from Seachem

General rules of thumb.

Your fish are under stress as soon as a level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l of ammonia is detected even if they show no outward appearance of being stressed. Even levels lower than 1ppm can cause your fish to die if they are exposed to ammonia for a prolonged period. Do not stop daily tests and treatment until the ammonia drops to zero. Unfortunately you may still lose some fish even after the ammonia levels drop off as the fish was exposed for too long.

Prevention:

The key to avoiding fish death from ammonia poisoning is to avoid ammonia spikes in the first place. To do this you should;

Stock new tanks slowly.
Avoid overstocking.
Do not overfeed and remove uneaten food after 5 minutes.
Change water regularly (The more populated your tank the more often the change)
Test water for ammonia at least twice a month.
If the filter stops, test for ammonia twenty-four hours later to ensure that the bacterial colonies that eliminate wastes were not affected.
Anytime a fish appears to be ill, test for ammonia to rule out ammonia poisoning.
Clean the tank weekly.

If your ammonia levels stay high then use Jungle Labs Ammonia Chloramine Eliminator: ACE to quickly convert ammonia to its nontoxic form.

Nitrite Poisoning

Environmental

Also know as: Brown Blood Disease, Nitrite

Description:

After ammonia, nitrite poisoning is the major killer of cultured fish. Be warned that if you have had ammonia problems then the nitrite levels will rise as well and your fish will be at risk from this new threat. Anytime ammonia levels are elevated you can be sure that elevated levels of nitrites will soon follow.

Symptoms:

Fish gasp for breath at the water surface.
Fish hang near water outlets trying to obtain more oxygen.
Rapid gill movement (oxygen)
Fish become lethargic.
Gills take on a brownish hue.

The same precautions apply to nitrite poisoning as ammonia poisoning.
Always test levels;

When setting up a new tank.
When adding new fish to an established tank.
When the filter fails.
When applying medications to your fish.

The reason this disease is also known as 'brown blood disease' is because the blood takes on a brown hue from an increase of methemoglobin. Besides changing the blood's color, methemoglobin reduces the blood's ability to carry oxygen which will eventually cause the poor fish to suffocate.

Nitrite poisoning affects species of fish differently. Some species will die suddenly without showing any signs of illness while other species may only become lethargic.
Those that become lethargic run the risk of secondary problems if exposed to nitrite for extended periods of time. Their immune system weakens and increases the likelyhood of developing diseases such as bacterial infection, fin rot and ich, to name just a few. If left untreated all species will suffer gill, blood cell and liver damage as a result of the methemoglobin levels and eventually they will perish by suffocation or one of the secondary diseases.

.
Treatment:

Large water change
Add one half ounce of salt/gallon of water (preferably chlorine salt) to prevent methemoglobin from building up.
Reduce feeding.
Aeration should be increased to saturate the water with oxygen.
Do not add new fish to the tank until ammonia and nitrite levels reach zero.
Test daily until nitrite is completely gone. (Nitrite is far more lethal at low levels than ammonia so it is imperitive that you get it to zero before you stop daily testing.)


Prevention:

Stock new tanks slowly
Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food
Change water regularly
Test water regularly to catch problems early
Always test the water for nitrite after an ammonia spike has occured as there will be a nitrite increase later.

The same prevention proceedures apply for nitrites as you would use for ammonia.

For detoxifyng nitrite and nitrate in your tank you might want to invest in a product like Seachem Prime for Freshwater and Saltwater

Flexibacter columnaris

Bacterial

Also known as; Cotton-Wool, Cotton-Mouth, Flexibacter, Columnaris, Mouth Fungus.

Description:

Often mistaken for a fungal infection because of its mold-like lesions, Columnaris is a common bacterial infection in cultured fish, particularly livebearing fish and catfish. Its name is derived from columnar shaped bacteria, which are present in virtually all aquarium environments.

When fish are stressed by poor water quality, poor diet, or even handling and shipping, they become prone to bacterial infections. Columnaris enters the fish through the its gills, mouth, and even through small skin wounds. The disease can spread rapidly in nets, holding containers, food or any number of other means. It is highly contagious.

In chronic cases, lesions will appear slowly and can take many days before killing your fish. An acute infection can spread quickly and will often kill off an entire fish population, sometimes within a few hours.The disease progresses quickly in high water temperatures but, unfortunately, lowering the temperature will not prevent the eventual outcome. Columnaris can be both external and internal.


External Symptoms:

White spots ( paleness) will appear first on the mouth and the edge of fins and scales. Later the lesions become brownish/yellow and may have a red tinge around them.
The mouth will form a growth that looks like cotton (or moldy looking) which eats away at the infected area.
The fins begin to erode from the edges inward.
The area near the dorsal fin will develope a lesion which has the appearance of a saddle.
The affected skin becomes covered with fungus.
The filaments in the gills begin to erode and the gills start to move rapidly trying to obtain oxygen.
While less common, the infection can be internal which displays no external symptoms.

Treatment:

Change water
Vacuum gravel (bacteria thrive on organic wastes)
Add aquarium salt (enhances gill function)
Treat with copper sulfate,antibiotics and chemicals (Acriflavine, Furan, and Terramycin)
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment
Terramycin is effective in treating foods for internal infections.
Use caution when treating catfish, as many are sensitive to salt.

Prevention:

Quarantine new fish for two weeks
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Medicate fish prophylactically before moving them
Always disinfect all equipment before each use to avoid spreading the bacterium.

Remember, a proper diet and maintaining good water quality in general will keep the fish from being stressed and therefore reduce its susceptibility to infection.


Oödinium pilularis

Parasitic skin flagellate

Also known as, Rust, Gold Dust Disease, Oödinium, Velvet

Description:

Oödinium is one of the more common diseases in cultured fish. This tiny parasite is capable of decimating an entire fish population, usually before you realize what the problem really is. It strikes both fresh and saltwater fish equally.

In freshwater fish Velvet is caused by either Oödinium pilularis or Oödinium limneticum. In marine fish Oödinium ocellatum causes Coral Fish disease. All three species are similar to the well known parasite, Ich.

Oödinium uses flagellum to adhere to fish and then forms rod pseudopodia which penetrates the skin and gill filaments. This destroys the cells and allows the parasite to feed on the nutrients inside. Eventually the parasite matures and divides into dozens of cells that drop off the original host and spread out in the tank in search of new hosts to feed on. They will die within a day if they fail to leach onto another host. They produce a white pustule on the host not unlike Ich but much finer. Sadly they are usually not seen in time and the host dies. Also, not unlike Ich, they are a common occurance in most pet store tanks but only become lethal when fish are stressed. (Poor water quality, temperature changes, handling etc.)

Symptoms:

Fish will scratch themselves against hard objects. (Trying to dislodge parasite)
Fish becomes lethargic
Fish display a loss of appetite.
Fish loses weight.
Fish displays rapid gill movement. (a universal sign of illness)
Fish clamp fins against body.
Fish developes a yellowish or rusty colored film on its skin. (telltale symptom - though hard to detect, try a flashlight beam on the fish in a dark setting. Look on the fins and gills.)
Fish's skin will eventually begin to peel off.

This parasite effects all fish, from fry to the aged but is particularly enamoured with Anabantoids, danios, goldfish, zebrafish, and killifish.

Treatment:

Oödinium is highly contagious and is usually in an advanced stage by the time you diagnose it, as such, it is important to take steps to treat it as soon as possible.
Raise water temperature (82 F will speed up the treatment)
Dim lights for several days (Oödinium is dependant on light)
Add aquarium salt (to aid the fish's breathing)
Treat with copper sulphate for ten days. (Atabrine -'Quinacrine hydrochloride', can also be used) The treatment is aimed at the free swimming parasite.
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (carbon filters will remove the drugs from the water.)


Prevention:

Quarantine new fish for two weeks. (They will carry the parasite from the pet store)
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet


Ichthyophthirius multifilis

Parasitic

Also known as Ich or White Spot

Description:

The name translates to "fish louse with many children", a title that fits well, as each parasite may produce over a thousand offspring. Although the disease is the equivalent of a skin infection, it can easily be fatal to a fish stressed by poor diet or habitat.

Symptoms:

Small white spots.
Fish scratch against hard surfaces (attempting to rid itself of parasite)
Fish become lethargic (advanced stage)
Fish will eventually develope redness or bloody streaks (advanced stage)

Severe infestations are easy to spot, but small occurrences often go unnoticed at first. Fear not for Ich becomes obvious eventually.

Ich feeds on blood and dead epithelial cells. As the parasite burrows into the fish it causes the skin of the fish to swell and produce white cysts which are seen as a small spots.
After several days, fat and swolen, the parasite lets go of the fish and sinks to the bottom of the tank. The Ich forms a protective membrane around itself and then proceeds to divide into hundreds of baby parasites. These are known as tomites. These tomites repeat the parasitic process and search out a fresh fish to chow down on. It is during this free-swimming stage (3 days tops) that medication must be administered. Once the Ich has found a new fish to call home it is protected from chemicals in the water.

Treatment:

Raise water temperature (speeds up treatment ie.it shortens the time it takes for the parasite to reach the stage in which it is susceptible to medication. )
Medicate for 10-14 days (long enough to wipe out all the parasites)
While nothing can kill the parasite whileit is feeding on the fish, the following are effective at killing Ich while it is free-swimming; malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride.
Reduce medication when treating scaleless fish (watch for secondary infections when fish have damaged skin)
Follow dose instructions on package but cut in half when treating scaleless tetras or catfish.
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (removes medication from water)
Perform water changes between treatments.

Methylene Blue

For help in repairing your fishes natural slime coating or damaged skin you can try Biospheres Stress Therapy from Mardel.


Prevention:

Quarantine new fish for two weeks
Treat plants before adding to tank (they can carry Ich cysts)
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Avoid temperature fluctuations.

Stress

This may seem obvious but remember that your fish does not like stress. Apart from all the other diseases that can affect your happy little friend stress can also cause death. Always pay attention to how your fish reacts when you add new fish or plants or change anything in the tank. If abnormal behaviour comes about then re-trace your steps and eliminate whatever it was that caused your fish to stress out

Breeding Betta Fish

Betta fish breed most successful before they reach a year of age. (Bettas are usually bred between 6 months and 1 year) They breed in bubblenests and do not require a special tank ( a breeding tank is recommended however) or equipment. In fact the male Betta fish takes care of almost everything. Were that only true for the human species - um... wouldn't you agree Ladies?

A bare bottomed tank, ten gallons or so is sufficient but, if need be, you can get away with smaller tanks. However, you must condition the Betta fish before breeding. This is not complicated and simply involves introducing them and feeding your Bettas with live foods.

To introduce your Bettas place each fish in adjoining containers where they can see each other. (the male will usually say something like " So, you hang out here often"...) Use either separate jars or a barrier so that they can not intermingle. This should last between 3 to 10 days depending on their state of readiness. Once introductions have been made you can place them in the breeding tank together.

The breeding tank should be about 5 inches deep. Place a large leaf or a piece of foam in it to aid the male in building the bubble nest.

Note

Several readers have sent emails asking which fish should be bred and how to tell when the fish are ready. In general you should select a pair that has the color and shape that most appeals to you. The male should always be larger than the female and you might want to choose one that has a great deal of energy with a vibrant color. The male is ready as soon as he starts making his bubble nest. The female will have a distended stomach culminating at the ovipositor. (white egg spot protruding from her abdomen) You will also see verticle stripes on the females flanks when she is ready to spawn. (If the stripes are horizontal this is a sign of stress) The female is capable of holding upwards of 500 eggs.


You should test your water's acidity. Ideally you want a PH level of about 7.0. The temperature of the tank should be 23 C or slightly higher (80 F).

When ready to spawn, the male Betta will blow a bubble nest. (This should take 1 - 2 days) Be sure to provide the female Betta with a place that she can hide in. (Placing plants in the tank will provide shelter) This is to protect her from the male who can become aggressive during the courtship period. ( Men... sheesh!!)

It is not unusual for the female Betta to lose a few scales or have her fins frayed during spawning. (poor dear) Spawning will cause both male and female Bettas to display intense colors and begin circling each other under the bubblenest.




Next, the female betta will turn over and the male Betta will wrap himself around her as she expels the eggs. Don't be alarmed if at times the female gets lethargic and floats to the top, this is hard work for her and can be exhausting. The whole process will be repeated several times until the female has finished laying her eggs.The eggs are fertilized and will sink to the bottom of the tank.This is when the male Betta takes over. He will scoop up the eggs in his mouth and carry them into the bubble nest. The male will tend to the brood from here on.

You should remove the female as soon as the male drives her from the nest. (Do this carefully so you do not disturb the nest) The male can become quite aggressive towards her as he tends his young. Any eggs that fall out of the nest will be put back by the male. Within a day or two the eggs will hatch and you will see the fry hanging from the nest, tails pointed downward. The fry are fed, for the next day or two, from their yolk sack. If the fry fall out of the nest during this time the male Betta will continue to put them back in the nest.

The fry will start to swim in 3 - 4 days. When the fry begin to swim freely, you should remove the male or he will begin to eat them. ( alas... it's a fish eat fish world) I digress...

Feed the fry twice daily. Use baby brine shrimp, daphnia or very fine baby food. You can use a Tetra dry mixture specifically designed for egglaying fish. Most pet shops carry frozen baby brine shrimp.

When the fry reach 2 weeks you can begin small water changes but do be careful as the fry are still very small.

Remember - do not overfeed your fish. The excess food will foul the water and can quickly prove lethal to the fry.

Please keep in mind that these are just guidelines for breeding your Betta fish.

If you are serious about wanting to breed your fish then you should really invest in a more intensive course and learn all the necessary tips and techniques. This is especially true if you want to sell your fish.

Betta Fish Bowls

Cleaning Your Fish Tank

Should you try cleaning your tank without emptying it or just tear it down and start from scratch? This is a question that gets posted quite often.

If you tear it down you will lose all the beneficial bacterial colonies that breakdown the wastes produced in the aquarium. For that reason I wouldn't start over, unless your tank is in extremely bad condition. With a little elbow grease and a few simple cleaning supplies you can have your aquarium looking ship shape again. Here are the supplies you'll need:

* Algae scraper/pads
* Razor blade (plastic blade for acrylic tanks)
* Bleach
* Water siphon
* Bucket
* Lime remover (made for aquariums)
* Glass cleaner (made for aquariums)
* Filter media
* Filter brush
* Old bath towels
* Paper towels

I suggest cleaning your aquarium in the following order:

1. Inside glass
2. Decorations (rocks, plants, etc)
3. Gravel
4. Outside glass and fixtures
5. Filter

Why clean the tank in that order?

Cleaning the glass will cause particles of debris to fall on the plants, decorations, and gravel, so it's best to clean them after the glass has been cleaned. Removing the plants and decorations will cause debris to fall to the bottom, so you might as well hold off cleaning the gravel until the plants and decorations have been taken out. Also, the gravel is much easier to clean once the plants and rocks have been removed. Needless to say, cleaning anything inside the tank will cause the outside of the tank to get dirty, so the outside should be cleaned after the inside. As for the filter, read on to see why that is the last item I recommend cleaning.

Algae Pads/Scrapers

Start your cleaning project by giving the glass a good cleaning on the inside. All you need for that is an algae scraper or pad. There are a wide variety of algae scrapers on the market, from long handled scrubbers to magnetic scrubbers. I personally like the small magnetic scrubbers, however virtually any algae pad will do. People often ask me if it's necessary to purchase algae scrubbing pads at a pet shop instead of the house wares department of a regular store. Although the pads may look the same, they may have a soap or chemical residue in them from the manufacturing process. A residue doesn't matter if you are cleaning your kitchen sink, but it can leave a lethal film in your aquarium. For that reason, I advise spending a few extra pennies to get the algae pads labeled for aquarium use. For particularly stubborn residue on the glass, use a razor blade to scrape it off. Take care not to cut yourself, or scratch the glass. If your aquarium is acrylic, use a special plastic razor blade, as standard razors will scratch acrylic.

Bleach ( see Note at Bottom )

Once the inside glass is clean, remove any rocks, artificial plants, or decorations that have significant algae growth, or are noticeably dirty. Do not clean them with soap or detergents! It is very difficult to completely remove soap, and even the smallest trace can be lethal to fish. Usually a good scrub with an algae scraper will remove the algae and dirt from rocks and plants. For particularly stubborn cleaning problems, prepare a 10% bleach solution (1 part household bleach to 9 parts water) and soak the items for 15 minutes. Scrub any remaining residue off, rinse well in running water, and let air dry to eliminate any residual bleach.

Live plants can be bleached, however stem plants do not tolerate bleaching well. To bleach live plants prepare a 5% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 19 parts water), soak the plants for two to three minutes (no longer), then rinse well.

Leave the rocks, decorations and plants out of the tank while you vacuum the gravel. That way none of the debris stirred up from the gravel will settle on them. A word of caution - get a new bucket and designate it for aquarium use only. If you use a bucket that has had soap or detergent in it, you risk introducing chemicals to the tank, which could result in the loss of your fish.

Siphon

Clean the gravel next, by using a water siphon to vacuum away the debris. There are several types of siphons available, all of which work essentially the same. My preference is for the Python, because it draws the dirty water directly into your sink, thus eliminating the need to use buckets (which can easily be tipped over). Magnum makes an adapter for the Hot Pro unit that allows you to siphon water through the filter and return it right back to the tank. Although this works well for removing larger debris particles, smaller particles will pass through the filter and are returned to the tank. Be sure to vacuum the entire surface of the gravel thoroughly so that all debris is removed.

Glass and Lime Cleaners

Once the inside of the aquarium is cleaned, the hood, light, tank top, and outside glass can be cleaned. I strongly urge using cleaners designated as aquarium safe. Regular glass cleaners contain ammonia, which is toxic to fish. Standard lime cleaners are even more toxic. Use aquarium safe cleansers, and rinse rinse rinse!

( I like using safe and easy wipes. You can find them here. ed. note )

Safe & EasyTM Aquarium Wipes

Filter Cleaning

Once everything is clean on the inside, the rocks, plants, and other decorations may be returned to the tank. At this point I'd wait a couple of weeks before cleaning the filter. Why wait? The reason is not visible to the naked eye. The major cleaning you just performed has disturbed the bacterial colonies on the plants, rocks, and in the gravel. Fortunately a significant number of the beneficial bacteria reside within the filter media, so you haven't completely upset the eco-system. However if you changed the filter at the same time, you might end up with a significant ammonia spike because there aren't enough beneficial bacteria left to eliminate the toxins. For that reason, it's wise to give the tank a rest before removing the filter and cleaning it.

When you are ready to clean the filter, should you clean or simply replace the filter media entirely? Some experts caution that replacing the filter media removes too many of the beneficial bacteria, and can essentially throw the aquarium into a new tank break-in cycle. Other experts argue that there are sufficient bacteria on the rocks and plants, and in the gravel to prevent the tank from having to go through a break-in cycle when the filter is replaced. My viewpoint is that what you should do depends on the type of filter media you are using.

If you have filter media containing carbon, ammonia absorbers, or ion-exchange resins, it should be replaced if it's more than three weeks old. After a couple of weeks the absorbing qualities in the media have been exhausted, and there are enough bacterial colonies elsewhere to offset its removal.

Media that acts as a mechanical filter instead of absorbing toxins (i.e.: ceramic rings, filter fiber, or sponges) should be gently rinsed to remove debris and returned to the filter. If care is taken to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium water, and the media is quickly returned to the filter, the bacterial colonies growing on them will not be lost entirely.

Don't forget to clean the filter tubing and other parts of the filter assembly. A filter brush will help clear out the sludge that invariably builds up in all the small crevices.

Ongoing Maintenance

Once you've gotten your tank in shape, make sure you clean it on an ongoing basis so it never needs a major spring-cleaning again. Scrape the glass weekly, vacuum the gravel every time you perform a water change, and clean any rocks or plants as soon as you see debris or algae on them. Clean the filter monthly, either by replacing the media, or rinsing it. While you are at it, soak your fish nets in a disinfectant solution to keep them clean and soft. With regular care, your aquarium will look beautiful all the time.

Betta Fish Tanks

Filtration Systems

Betta fish are relatively easy to care for and their low maintenance is particularly appealing to people who would like to have fish but don’t have a lot of time to care for them.

If you are keeping your Betta fish in a jar or bowl (not recommended) you should keep your Betta in a big enough container so that he can swim around and not bump or tear his fins or scales. Also be sure there is plenty of surface area so that he can get enough oxygen.
Even though Bettas do well in waters that have low
oxygen levels, it does not mean they require less
oxygen than other fish. Bettas have a special labyrinth
organ that allows them to breath air directly from the
surface. In fact they have to do so. Experiments have
shown that when the labyrinth organ is removed, the
fish dies from suffocation even though the water is
saturated with oxygen. Ultimately Bettas have to
breath air from the atmosphere and need access to
the water surface to do so.

Your Betta fish does not require a filtration system but you must provide it with the cleanest water possible. You should change out a third of the water every three days so it stays fresh and clean and keeps your Betta from getting bacterial or fungal infections. Aged water should be used to replace the old water. You can age your water by setting it out for at least 24 hours. You might also want to invest in a product like Bio-Safe Water Conditioner that removes chlorine and other chemicals from tap water.

If you are using an aquarium chances are you have more than just a Betta fish in it. (note - Betta’s can be coupled with algae eaters, guppies, or corydorus catfish safely). In this case you will likely have a filtration system. Optimally the water for keeping healthy Bettas should be soft, warm, with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Water movement should be kept to a minimum and this means that power filters and powerheads are not suitable.

The PH of your tank should be about 7.0. You can get a PH testing kit at your pet store along with solutions to minimize or increase the PH of your water.
All tanks need biological and mechanical filtration to maintain a healthy environment.

Three Types of Filtration

In aquariums there can be three types of filtration processes - biological, chemical, and mechanical. All tanks need at least some form of biological and mechanical filtration to maintain a healthy environment. It's a good idea to understand the basics of each type of filtration so you can make an informed decision when selecting a filter.

Mechanical - Mechanical filtration involves the removal of particles of waste by passing water continuously through foam or other porous material. The filter traps particles of debris, and is periodically cleaned or replaced. Because solid waste is constantly being produced in your tank, a mechanical filter of some type is a must.

Chemical - In chemical filtration water is passed though material such as carbon, which removes at least some of the dissolved materials. Toxic metals, ammonia, and even odors can be filtered out chemically. While chemical filtration is not absolutely required, it can be useful combined with other filtration methods. Chemical filtration is particularly helpful when starting a new tank, because it can remove ammonia

Biological - Fish produce wastes which cannot be filtered completely using mechanical or chemical methods. Unless these wastes are removed, over time they will build up to a lethal level. In biological filtration, two types of beneficial bacteria known as "nitrofiers" grow in the tank and convert harmful wastes into something less harmful. All aquariums need to have successful biological filtration in order for the fish to remain healthy.Typically it takes about a month to establish a flourishing biological colony that will effectively filter all the harmful wastes
Basic filter types include:
Box filters, Cannister filters
Fluidized bed filters
Power filters - do not use with Bettas
Sponge filters
Underground filters (UGF)
Wet/Dry filters

Check with your local pet shop for more information on what type to use with your particular set up.

Betta Fish Food

Betta fish are meat eaters. In nature Bettas subsist almost exclusively on insects and insect larvae.This might be hard to achieve with a pet Betta but the more you can replicate the Betta fish's natural diet the better off your fish will be.


Betta fish have an upturned mouth that is well suited to snatching insects
that live on or fall into the water. You should give your Betta live food as often as possible. Internally, their digestive system, is geared for meat, as they have a shorter alimentary track than vegetarian fish.

Bettas are, however, able to adapt to flake foods and frozen and freeze dried foods. If live food is not available you can feed your Betta Tubifex, Brine shrimp, Daphnia, Plankton, Glassworms and Beef Heart. These can all be found frozen or freeze dried. If flake food is fed, it should be supplemented with frozen and freeze-dried foods, and always, if possible, live foods.

Betta Fish Basics

Betta Fish are also called Siamese Fighting Fish. The name Betta is pronounced as the Greek letter beta, and because of this, the name is often misspelled in American English, with one t instead of two. The name is unrelated to the Greek letter and originates from the Thai phrase 'ikan bettah'. In Thailand, betta fish are known as pla-kad. Betta Fish live in freshwater. Betta fish are one of the most popular aquarium fish. This is mainly because of their appearance - certainly not because they are easy to keep in an aquarium. Betta Fish originate from the Mekong basin in Southeast Asia.

Betta fish are known to "puff-out" when aggravated. When this happens their gills and fins puff out to appear more impressive. They do it to either intimidate rival males or to impress females during courtship.
One interesting aspect of Betta fish is their extremely well-developed eyesight. Betta fish will swim to the surface when they see your hand over the tank as you feed them.

Betta fish grow to about 6 cm, and have a life-span, on average, of about four years. Well maintained aquarium Bettas have been known to live longer than six years.

In Asian countries, the Betta fish have been used in fights
not unlike cockfighting known in Mexico. These fighting fish usually have much shorter fins than the Betta fish we are accustomed to in the west. Betta Fish breeders have developed the brilliantly colored and long finned varieties of Bettas we see in pet stores today.

Betta fish create nests made of floating masses of bubbles. They are blown with saliva. These bubble nests are a place for fertilized eggs to hatch in. The nest is guarded by the male until the small Betta fishes hatch. The nests are made from air bubbles which when coated with saliva increase its strength. When the male Betta makes the nest you can hear a louder noise than when it breathes normally. After the Betta fish have spawned, the eggs float up into the nest from below or the male Betta carries them there in its mouth.

The male Betta will guard the nest for the next 24-48 hours until the eggs hatch. He also keeps a close watch on the eggs and will retrieve any eggs or fry that fall from the nest. He will also repair the nest by adding bubbles where needed. After the fry hatch (in 24-48 hours) the male will tend the fish for the next couple of weeks.

Betta Fish Care

The following tips will help you raise happy and healthy Betta Fish. Having saved them from those horrid plastic cups you originally found them in you now need to give them a proper home.

Betta Fish are some of the most beautiful fish on the planet and they will catch the eye of your guests. With their long flowing fins and vibrant colors, it’s easy to see why the Betta Splendens or Siamese Fighting Fish are a favorite fish for fresh water aquariums. It won't take long to realize that Bettas have a personality of their own. As long as they are happy and healthy, you'll be entertained no end by their waving tails and the little water ballets they perform. They can be awfully cute as fish go.



Often seen in tiny little bowls in the pet store, the Betta males are fiercely territorial and must be kept in separate bowls or aquariums or they may fight to the death.

Tip #1: Your Betta's Tank

Betta fish are equipped with a tipped up mouth and as such, they are able to get air from the surface of the water. This enables them to live in small bowls or those plant vases that are so popular today. Unfortunately, as cool as you may think this is, if you want to keep your Betta fish healthy and long lived this method of keeping Bettas is not recommended.

(It was about the time that I was flushing my 4 year old daughter's third Betta down the toilet {Nemo #3-go figure} that I realized that maybe plant vases weren't the best idea.)

Betta Splenden originate from Thailand, Cambodia, and certain
parts of Vietnam. In the Betta Splenden's natural habitat, the
temperature is usually pretty consistent.

The ideal environment for a Betta fish, is an aquarium tank of 5 gallons or more with proper filtration and heating. The Betta fish live naturally in very shallow water that has little movement. As a tropical fish, it likes the water temperature somewhere in the high 70’s. Your best result is to keep the water heated to 78 degrees (22 C)and use a filtration system that does not create strong water movement.

The temperature of your Betta Splenden's tank is extremely
important for their health and well-being.

If the temperature drops below 78 F - 22 C, your Betta's growth will be stunted and they become prone to disease or worse they can die from chronic stress. Constant temperature fluctuations will stress out your Betta.

Tip #2: Quality of Water

To keep your Betta fish happy and healthy, periodic water changes must be done and the replacement water must be properly conditioned. By keeping your tank clean, your Betta's immune system improves and receives essential body salts. Cleaning also rids your fish tank of harmful wastes.

Fish Tank Cleaning Proceedures.

A good filtration system and the size of your tank are key to
your Betta's health and happiness.

Filtration takes waste, toxins, uneaten food, and sometimes bacteria out of the water, giving your Betta fish a better, healthier environment to live in. You have many choices on filtration systems, but even a basic system will save you time and frustration in changing the water.


Remember the more often you change your water, the more you'll stress out your Betta fish. The easiest way to avoid changing your Betta's water and still keep the water clean is to;

1)Get a good filtration system.

2)Get a bigger tank.

The bigger your tank, the longer it takes before your water gets contaminated. Hence the longer it takes before you have to change the water in your tank.
An important aspect in keeping any fish is to make sure you do not overload the tank. As a general rule of thumb, 1 inch of fish per gallon of water. If you have a 20 gallon tank, you can safely house 20 inches of fish.

The less fish - the better.

Tip #3: Betta Fish Love to Jump!

Unless the walls of your fish tank are high you will have to place something on top of your aquarium or your Betta fish are likely to jump out.

Tip #4: Betta Fish Diet

Betta Fish should eat mostly meats. Frozen crayfish
eggs, beef heart, baby and decapsulated brine shrimps, as well
as bloodworms/brine shrimps are all great choices. Small amounts of lettuce or spinach can be mixed in for fiber.

Avoid overfeeding your Betta Fish.



Tip #5: Betta Fish Are Fighters!

Putting two male Bettas in one tank is a huge no-no! (see Note 1) Two males will almost always break out into a vicious fight. Female Bettas put in the same tank are also known to fight each other so you might want to avoid this as well. Yes males will fight with females too.

If you're trying to breed Betta Fish then the female Betta should be introduced to the male Betta in such a way as to avoid physical contact.

This can be done by placing a female Betta inside a tall jar and then placing this jar inside the male Betta Fish's tank. By doing so, you'll introduce the two Betta Fish to each another without fear of them tearing each other apart.


Note 1

The use of plastic boxes that hang inside the aquarium are a suitable option for keeping more than one male Betta in a tank, or for keeping them in a tank with fish that might nip their fins.