Friday, March 27, 2009
Friday, March 20, 2009
Breeding Betta Fish
Betta fish breed most successful before they reach a year of age. (Bettas are usually bred between 6 months and 1 year) They breed in bubblenests and do not require a special tank ( a breeding tank is recommended however) or equipment. In fact the male Betta fish takes care of almost everything. Were that only true for the human species - um... wouldn't you agree Ladies?
A bare bottomed tank, ten gallons or so is sufficient but, if need be, you can get away with smaller tanks. However, you must condition the Betta fish before breeding. This is not complicated and simply involves introducing them and feeding your Bettas with live foods.
To introduce your Bettas place each fish in adjoining containers where they can see each other. (the male will usually say something like " So, you hang out here often"...) Use either separate jars or a barrier so that they can not intermingle. This should last between 3 to 10 days depending on their state of readiness. Once introductions have been made you can place them in the breeding tank together.
The breeding tank should be about 5 inches deep. Place a large leaf or a piece of foam in it to aid the male in building the bubble nest.
Note
Several readers have sent emails asking which fish should be bred and how to tell when the fish are ready. In general you should select a pair that has the color and shape that most appeals to you. The male should always be larger than the female and you might want to choose one that has a great deal of energy with a vibrant color. The male is ready as soon as he starts making his bubble nest. The female will have a distended stomach culminating at the ovipositor. (white egg spot protruding from her abdomen) You will also see verticle stripes on the females flanks when she is ready to spawn. (If the stripes are horizontal this is a sign of stress) The female is capable of holding upwards of 500 eggs.
You should test your water's acidity. Ideally you want a PH level of about 7.0. The temperature of the tank should be 23 C or slightly higher (80 F).
When ready to spawn, the male Betta will blow a bubble nest. (This should take 1 - 2 days) Be sure to provide the female Betta with a place that she can hide in. (Placing plants in the tank will provide shelter) This is to protect her from the male who can become aggressive during the courtship period. ( Men... sheesh!!)
It is not unusual for the female Betta to lose a few scales or have her fins frayed during spawning. (poor dear) Spawning will cause both male and female Bettas to display intense colors and begin circling each other under the bubblenest.
Next, the female betta will turn over and the male Betta will wrap himself around her as she expels the eggs. Don't be alarmed if at times the female gets lethargic and floats to the top, this is hard work for her and can be exhausting. The whole process will be repeated several times until the female has finished laying her eggs.The eggs are fertilized and will sink to the bottom of the tank.This is when the male Betta takes over. He will scoop up the eggs in his mouth and carry them into the bubble nest. The male will tend to the brood from here on.
You should remove the female as soon as the male drives her from the nest. (Do this carefully so you do not disturb the nest) The male can become quite aggressive towards her as he tends his young. Any eggs that fall out of the nest will be put back by the male. Within a day or two the eggs will hatch and you will see the fry hanging from the nest, tails pointed downward. The fry are fed, for the next day or two, from their yolk sack. If the fry fall out of the nest during this time the male Betta will continue to put them back in the nest.
The fry will start to swim in 3 - 4 days. When the fry begin to swim freely, you should remove the male or he will begin to eat them. ( alas... it's a fish eat fish world) I digress...
Feed the fry twice daily. Use baby brine shrimp, daphnia or very fine baby food. You can use a Tetra dry mixture specifically designed for egglaying fish. Most pet shops carry frozen baby brine shrimp.
When the fry reach 2 weeks you can begin small water changes but do be careful as the fry are still very small.
Remember - do not overfeed your fish. The excess food will foul the water and can quickly prove lethal to the fry.
Please keep in mind that these are just guidelines for breeding your Betta fish.
If you are serious about wanting to breed your fish then you should really invest in a more intensive course and learn all the necessary tips and techniques. This is especially true if you want to sell your fish.
A bare bottomed tank, ten gallons or so is sufficient but, if need be, you can get away with smaller tanks. However, you must condition the Betta fish before breeding. This is not complicated and simply involves introducing them and feeding your Bettas with live foods.
To introduce your Bettas place each fish in adjoining containers where they can see each other. (the male will usually say something like " So, you hang out here often"...) Use either separate jars or a barrier so that they can not intermingle. This should last between 3 to 10 days depending on their state of readiness. Once introductions have been made you can place them in the breeding tank together.
The breeding tank should be about 5 inches deep. Place a large leaf or a piece of foam in it to aid the male in building the bubble nest.
Note
Several readers have sent emails asking which fish should be bred and how to tell when the fish are ready. In general you should select a pair that has the color and shape that most appeals to you. The male should always be larger than the female and you might want to choose one that has a great deal of energy with a vibrant color. The male is ready as soon as he starts making his bubble nest. The female will have a distended stomach culminating at the ovipositor. (white egg spot protruding from her abdomen) You will also see verticle stripes on the females flanks when she is ready to spawn. (If the stripes are horizontal this is a sign of stress) The female is capable of holding upwards of 500 eggs.
You should test your water's acidity. Ideally you want a PH level of about 7.0. The temperature of the tank should be 23 C or slightly higher (80 F).
When ready to spawn, the male Betta will blow a bubble nest. (This should take 1 - 2 days) Be sure to provide the female Betta with a place that she can hide in. (Placing plants in the tank will provide shelter) This is to protect her from the male who can become aggressive during the courtship period. ( Men... sheesh!!)
It is not unusual for the female Betta to lose a few scales or have her fins frayed during spawning. (poor dear) Spawning will cause both male and female Bettas to display intense colors and begin circling each other under the bubblenest.
Next, the female betta will turn over and the male Betta will wrap himself around her as she expels the eggs. Don't be alarmed if at times the female gets lethargic and floats to the top, this is hard work for her and can be exhausting. The whole process will be repeated several times until the female has finished laying her eggs.The eggs are fertilized and will sink to the bottom of the tank.This is when the male Betta takes over. He will scoop up the eggs in his mouth and carry them into the bubble nest. The male will tend to the brood from here on.
You should remove the female as soon as the male drives her from the nest. (Do this carefully so you do not disturb the nest) The male can become quite aggressive towards her as he tends his young. Any eggs that fall out of the nest will be put back by the male. Within a day or two the eggs will hatch and you will see the fry hanging from the nest, tails pointed downward. The fry are fed, for the next day or two, from their yolk sack. If the fry fall out of the nest during this time the male Betta will continue to put them back in the nest.
The fry will start to swim in 3 - 4 days. When the fry begin to swim freely, you should remove the male or he will begin to eat them. ( alas... it's a fish eat fish world) I digress...
Feed the fry twice daily. Use baby brine shrimp, daphnia or very fine baby food. You can use a Tetra dry mixture specifically designed for egglaying fish. Most pet shops carry frozen baby brine shrimp.
When the fry reach 2 weeks you can begin small water changes but do be careful as the fry are still very small.
Remember - do not overfeed your fish. The excess food will foul the water and can quickly prove lethal to the fry.
Please keep in mind that these are just guidelines for breeding your Betta fish.
If you are serious about wanting to breed your fish then you should really invest in a more intensive course and learn all the necessary tips and techniques. This is especially true if you want to sell your fish.
Friday, March 13, 2009
Friday, March 6, 2009
Betta Fish Bowls
Cleaning Your Fish Tank
Should you try cleaning your tank without emptying it or just tear it down and start from scratch? This is a question that gets posted quite often.
If you tear it down you will lose all the beneficial bacterial colonies that breakdown the wastes produced in the aquarium. For that reason I wouldn't start over, unless your tank is in extremely bad condition. With a little elbow grease and a few simple cleaning supplies you can have your aquarium looking ship shape again. Here are the supplies you'll need:
* Algae scraper/pads
* Razor blade (plastic blade for acrylic tanks)
* Bleach
* Water siphon
* Bucket
* Lime remover (made for aquariums)
* Glass cleaner (made for aquariums)
* Filter media
* Filter brush
* Old bath towels
* Paper towels
I suggest cleaning your aquarium in the following order:
1. Inside glass
2. Decorations (rocks, plants, etc)
3. Gravel
4. Outside glass and fixtures
5. Filter
Why clean the tank in that order?
Cleaning the glass will cause particles of debris to fall on the plants, decorations, and gravel, so it's best to clean them after the glass has been cleaned. Removing the plants and decorations will cause debris to fall to the bottom, so you might as well hold off cleaning the gravel until the plants and decorations have been taken out. Also, the gravel is much easier to clean once the plants and rocks have been removed. Needless to say, cleaning anything inside the tank will cause the outside of the tank to get dirty, so the outside should be cleaned after the inside. As for the filter, read on to see why that is the last item I recommend cleaning.
Algae Pads/Scrapers
Start your cleaning project by giving the glass a good cleaning on the inside. All you need for that is an algae scraper or pad. There are a wide variety of algae scrapers on the market, from long handled scrubbers to magnetic scrubbers. I personally like the small magnetic scrubbers, however virtually any algae pad will do. People often ask me if it's necessary to purchase algae scrubbing pads at a pet shop instead of the house wares department of a regular store. Although the pads may look the same, they may have a soap or chemical residue in them from the manufacturing process. A residue doesn't matter if you are cleaning your kitchen sink, but it can leave a lethal film in your aquarium. For that reason, I advise spending a few extra pennies to get the algae pads labeled for aquarium use. For particularly stubborn residue on the glass, use a razor blade to scrape it off. Take care not to cut yourself, or scratch the glass. If your aquarium is acrylic, use a special plastic razor blade, as standard razors will scratch acrylic.
Bleach ( see Note at Bottom )
Once the inside glass is clean, remove any rocks, artificial plants, or decorations that have significant algae growth, or are noticeably dirty. Do not clean them with soap or detergents! It is very difficult to completely remove soap, and even the smallest trace can be lethal to fish. Usually a good scrub with an algae scraper will remove the algae and dirt from rocks and plants. For particularly stubborn cleaning problems, prepare a 10% bleach solution (1 part household bleach to 9 parts water) and soak the items for 15 minutes. Scrub any remaining residue off, rinse well in running water, and let air dry to eliminate any residual bleach.
Live plants can be bleached, however stem plants do not tolerate bleaching well. To bleach live plants prepare a 5% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 19 parts water), soak the plants for two to three minutes (no longer), then rinse well.
Leave the rocks, decorations and plants out of the tank while you vacuum the gravel. That way none of the debris stirred up from the gravel will settle on them. A word of caution - get a new bucket and designate it for aquarium use only. If you use a bucket that has had soap or detergent in it, you risk introducing chemicals to the tank, which could result in the loss of your fish.
Siphon
Clean the gravel next, by using a water siphon to vacuum away the debris. There are several types of siphons available, all of which work essentially the same. My preference is for the Python, because it draws the dirty water directly into your sink, thus eliminating the need to use buckets (which can easily be tipped over). Magnum makes an adapter for the Hot Pro unit that allows you to siphon water through the filter and return it right back to the tank. Although this works well for removing larger debris particles, smaller particles will pass through the filter and are returned to the tank. Be sure to vacuum the entire surface of the gravel thoroughly so that all debris is removed.
Glass and Lime Cleaners
Once the inside of the aquarium is cleaned, the hood, light, tank top, and outside glass can be cleaned. I strongly urge using cleaners designated as aquarium safe. Regular glass cleaners contain ammonia, which is toxic to fish. Standard lime cleaners are even more toxic. Use aquarium safe cleansers, and rinse rinse rinse!
( I like using safe and easy wipes. You can find them here. ed. note )
Safe & EasyTM Aquarium Wipes
Filter Cleaning
Once everything is clean on the inside, the rocks, plants, and other decorations may be returned to the tank. At this point I'd wait a couple of weeks before cleaning the filter. Why wait? The reason is not visible to the naked eye. The major cleaning you just performed has disturbed the bacterial colonies on the plants, rocks, and in the gravel. Fortunately a significant number of the beneficial bacteria reside within the filter media, so you haven't completely upset the eco-system. However if you changed the filter at the same time, you might end up with a significant ammonia spike because there aren't enough beneficial bacteria left to eliminate the toxins. For that reason, it's wise to give the tank a rest before removing the filter and cleaning it.
When you are ready to clean the filter, should you clean or simply replace the filter media entirely? Some experts caution that replacing the filter media removes too many of the beneficial bacteria, and can essentially throw the aquarium into a new tank break-in cycle. Other experts argue that there are sufficient bacteria on the rocks and plants, and in the gravel to prevent the tank from having to go through a break-in cycle when the filter is replaced. My viewpoint is that what you should do depends on the type of filter media you are using.
If you have filter media containing carbon, ammonia absorbers, or ion-exchange resins, it should be replaced if it's more than three weeks old. After a couple of weeks the absorbing qualities in the media have been exhausted, and there are enough bacterial colonies elsewhere to offset its removal.
Media that acts as a mechanical filter instead of absorbing toxins (i.e.: ceramic rings, filter fiber, or sponges) should be gently rinsed to remove debris and returned to the filter. If care is taken to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium water, and the media is quickly returned to the filter, the bacterial colonies growing on them will not be lost entirely.
Don't forget to clean the filter tubing and other parts of the filter assembly. A filter brush will help clear out the sludge that invariably builds up in all the small crevices.
Ongoing Maintenance
Once you've gotten your tank in shape, make sure you clean it on an ongoing basis so it never needs a major spring-cleaning again. Scrape the glass weekly, vacuum the gravel every time you perform a water change, and clean any rocks or plants as soon as you see debris or algae on them. Clean the filter monthly, either by replacing the media, or rinsing it. While you are at it, soak your fish nets in a disinfectant solution to keep them clean and soft. With regular care, your aquarium will look beautiful all the time.
Should you try cleaning your tank without emptying it or just tear it down and start from scratch? This is a question that gets posted quite often.
If you tear it down you will lose all the beneficial bacterial colonies that breakdown the wastes produced in the aquarium. For that reason I wouldn't start over, unless your tank is in extremely bad condition. With a little elbow grease and a few simple cleaning supplies you can have your aquarium looking ship shape again. Here are the supplies you'll need:
* Algae scraper/pads
* Razor blade (plastic blade for acrylic tanks)
* Bleach
* Water siphon
* Bucket
* Lime remover (made for aquariums)
* Glass cleaner (made for aquariums)
* Filter media
* Filter brush
* Old bath towels
* Paper towels
I suggest cleaning your aquarium in the following order:
1. Inside glass
2. Decorations (rocks, plants, etc)
3. Gravel
4. Outside glass and fixtures
5. Filter
Why clean the tank in that order?
Cleaning the glass will cause particles of debris to fall on the plants, decorations, and gravel, so it's best to clean them after the glass has been cleaned. Removing the plants and decorations will cause debris to fall to the bottom, so you might as well hold off cleaning the gravel until the plants and decorations have been taken out. Also, the gravel is much easier to clean once the plants and rocks have been removed. Needless to say, cleaning anything inside the tank will cause the outside of the tank to get dirty, so the outside should be cleaned after the inside. As for the filter, read on to see why that is the last item I recommend cleaning.
Algae Pads/Scrapers
Start your cleaning project by giving the glass a good cleaning on the inside. All you need for that is an algae scraper or pad. There are a wide variety of algae scrapers on the market, from long handled scrubbers to magnetic scrubbers. I personally like the small magnetic scrubbers, however virtually any algae pad will do. People often ask me if it's necessary to purchase algae scrubbing pads at a pet shop instead of the house wares department of a regular store. Although the pads may look the same, they may have a soap or chemical residue in them from the manufacturing process. A residue doesn't matter if you are cleaning your kitchen sink, but it can leave a lethal film in your aquarium. For that reason, I advise spending a few extra pennies to get the algae pads labeled for aquarium use. For particularly stubborn residue on the glass, use a razor blade to scrape it off. Take care not to cut yourself, or scratch the glass. If your aquarium is acrylic, use a special plastic razor blade, as standard razors will scratch acrylic.
Bleach ( see Note at Bottom )
Once the inside glass is clean, remove any rocks, artificial plants, or decorations that have significant algae growth, or are noticeably dirty. Do not clean them with soap or detergents! It is very difficult to completely remove soap, and even the smallest trace can be lethal to fish. Usually a good scrub with an algae scraper will remove the algae and dirt from rocks and plants. For particularly stubborn cleaning problems, prepare a 10% bleach solution (1 part household bleach to 9 parts water) and soak the items for 15 minutes. Scrub any remaining residue off, rinse well in running water, and let air dry to eliminate any residual bleach.
Live plants can be bleached, however stem plants do not tolerate bleaching well. To bleach live plants prepare a 5% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 19 parts water), soak the plants for two to three minutes (no longer), then rinse well.
Leave the rocks, decorations and plants out of the tank while you vacuum the gravel. That way none of the debris stirred up from the gravel will settle on them. A word of caution - get a new bucket and designate it for aquarium use only. If you use a bucket that has had soap or detergent in it, you risk introducing chemicals to the tank, which could result in the loss of your fish.
Siphon
Clean the gravel next, by using a water siphon to vacuum away the debris. There are several types of siphons available, all of which work essentially the same. My preference is for the Python, because it draws the dirty water directly into your sink, thus eliminating the need to use buckets (which can easily be tipped over). Magnum makes an adapter for the Hot Pro unit that allows you to siphon water through the filter and return it right back to the tank. Although this works well for removing larger debris particles, smaller particles will pass through the filter and are returned to the tank. Be sure to vacuum the entire surface of the gravel thoroughly so that all debris is removed.
Glass and Lime Cleaners
Once the inside of the aquarium is cleaned, the hood, light, tank top, and outside glass can be cleaned. I strongly urge using cleaners designated as aquarium safe. Regular glass cleaners contain ammonia, which is toxic to fish. Standard lime cleaners are even more toxic. Use aquarium safe cleansers, and rinse rinse rinse!
( I like using safe and easy wipes. You can find them here. ed. note )
Safe & EasyTM Aquarium Wipes
Filter Cleaning
Once everything is clean on the inside, the rocks, plants, and other decorations may be returned to the tank. At this point I'd wait a couple of weeks before cleaning the filter. Why wait? The reason is not visible to the naked eye. The major cleaning you just performed has disturbed the bacterial colonies on the plants, rocks, and in the gravel. Fortunately a significant number of the beneficial bacteria reside within the filter media, so you haven't completely upset the eco-system. However if you changed the filter at the same time, you might end up with a significant ammonia spike because there aren't enough beneficial bacteria left to eliminate the toxins. For that reason, it's wise to give the tank a rest before removing the filter and cleaning it.
When you are ready to clean the filter, should you clean or simply replace the filter media entirely? Some experts caution that replacing the filter media removes too many of the beneficial bacteria, and can essentially throw the aquarium into a new tank break-in cycle. Other experts argue that there are sufficient bacteria on the rocks and plants, and in the gravel to prevent the tank from having to go through a break-in cycle when the filter is replaced. My viewpoint is that what you should do depends on the type of filter media you are using.
If you have filter media containing carbon, ammonia absorbers, or ion-exchange resins, it should be replaced if it's more than three weeks old. After a couple of weeks the absorbing qualities in the media have been exhausted, and there are enough bacterial colonies elsewhere to offset its removal.
Media that acts as a mechanical filter instead of absorbing toxins (i.e.: ceramic rings, filter fiber, or sponges) should be gently rinsed to remove debris and returned to the filter. If care is taken to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium water, and the media is quickly returned to the filter, the bacterial colonies growing on them will not be lost entirely.
Don't forget to clean the filter tubing and other parts of the filter assembly. A filter brush will help clear out the sludge that invariably builds up in all the small crevices.
Ongoing Maintenance
Once you've gotten your tank in shape, make sure you clean it on an ongoing basis so it never needs a major spring-cleaning again. Scrape the glass weekly, vacuum the gravel every time you perform a water change, and clean any rocks or plants as soon as you see debris or algae on them. Clean the filter monthly, either by replacing the media, or rinsing it. While you are at it, soak your fish nets in a disinfectant solution to keep them clean and soft. With regular care, your aquarium will look beautiful all the time.
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